Friday, October 26, 2007

the south of france

It’s hard to know even where to begin when I sit down to write these letters- but that is always the case with Paris!! This city never stops to let me catch my breath and look around- it’s incredible though. The opportunities, the fun, the sights, the museums, the restaurants, the memories- they never quiet stop!!

Winter has fully hit and the morning greets me with gusts of crisp, fresh air each time I step out the door. I am definitely getting use out of my clothes that Texas doesn’t seem to let me where. The mornings are beautiful and the nights even more magical- walking around in Paris, laughing with friends- making memories as a 20-year old! What could I regret!

But enough about Paris- how about the French Riviera…

We spent five days last week seeing as many cities in the South of France as possible. Somewhere in between the transportation strike and midterm exams I nearly missed the first train to Marseilles- but somehow I made it.

We spent the first day in Marseilles, the second largest city in France, which also has the largest Mediterranean commercial port. Most of our time we spent touring the city and learning the history, seeing beautiful churches and of course eating fresh muscles from the port and drinking even better wine. It was incredible to see this port city come alive on Saturday morning with a market that had anything you could imagine or want. Fresh flowers were everywhere, children and dogs running around, fresh food, glistening sailboats in the harbor and the beautiful sun lighting up the old building and cold stone.

From there we went to another beautiful city (they were all amazing I would have to say) called Hyeres. The city is clustered around the Castle of Saint Bernard, which is set on a hill. And between the old town and the sea lies the tree-covered hill of Costebelle, which overlooks the peninsula of Giens. Hyères is the most southerly Mediterranean seaside resort in mainland France- and it was breath taking. I spent most of our afternoon staring out from our balcony at the deep blue sea that constantly and calmly lapped up on the rocky shore. It was so incredibly peaceful just sitting and watching the sun fall behind the clouds and see the tree’s fade in the evening.

From Hyeres we drove long the coast to the famous Port of St. Tropez- a beautiful village on the French Rivera, set on the blue waters of the Golfe de Saint-Tropez. This modern version of a medieval town is unforgettable with its luxury yachts lining the harbor and terrace cafés facing the water, divided by a parade of strolling tourists and slowly cruising sports. We spent the afternoon walking along the boardwalk, eating fresh paella and gelato, watching the seaside artists create beautiful pieces of work and learning the history and stories of yet another town in Côte d'Azur.

From St. Tropez we drove on to Nice- probably one of my favorite cities in the French Riviera. The boardwalk itself lining the French coast is incredible- but the water truly does do justice to its name- the Blue Coast. The glistening boats, the yellow and orange painted houses along the rocky shore, the white linen table cloths on the beach front restaurants and the people walking- walking everywhere with not purpose or agenda- just walking to soak it all in. It was absolutely amazing- with teal, turquoise, royal, and almost white blue water dancing all over the rocky coast line. Mornings and nights alike were beautiful- and we spent two days in Nice, taking day trips to Cannes and on to Antibes in our afternoons.

The Port cities along French Riviera were absolutely amazing- beautiful in their own regards and distinctive from the next. It was definitely a nice change in weather and pace of Paris- the sun drenched the cities and warmed the coast. But now I’m packing for another adventure! I was back in Paris for two days and I fly out tonight with some good friends for fall break in Budapest and Prague! We have no idea what to expect, but no doubt it will be unforgettable! 

Friday, October 5, 2007

the sweet life on the streets of paris

I think that there is nothing more beautiful in Paris then when the sun is just waking the city and its rays shatter the cold, stone buildings that line the boulevards over looking the sleeping trees and deserted sidewalks.

Paris gets more beautiful the longer that I am here. I am learning to appreciate the smallest things- because I know that I have time to watch, understand and comprehend how this city really ticks. Yet, each time I see the Eiffel Tower- its always brings me to reality that I am actually living in Paris!

I never get tired of walking up from the metro and absorbing the scent of fresh bread or the feeling of the crisp wind hitting my cheekbones. I love walking past the café’s as they open their store windows and brush off the yellow and orange leaves that fell in the night; or watching the men at the flower stands as they cart their incredible collections out to the sidewalks; or follow the old men’s eyes as they sip their espresso, read the newspaper and gaze at the city unfolding before them. It never gets old.

I love the simplicity of my walk- I have the regulars- the same shopkeeper who is always watering her trees as I walk past each morning- we have that understood friendships that two people have even though they have never met- we simply always pass with a sincere smile. Then I walk on, watching the same three, old men talking and laughing in the same fashion they probably have for 30 years. It’s the familiarities like these that make Paris seem small that make me feel like I have a reason and a purpose- if nothing else- just to be a smile to someone. It’s those three blocks from the metro to class that I love and cherish each morning.

I almost feel guilty that I get to learn in these settings. I sketched at the Louvre again this week- but this time it in the middle of runways, tents and assistants running around as they set up for Fashion Week… another benefit to living in a city that has the world watching it. My architecture classes take me to the oldest churches where gothic architecture and rose windows were first established, or to the crypts below Notre Dame, even to the Chateaus surrounding the city and regularly to the most visited spots in Paris.  How is it that I get credit for all this?!

I spend as much time as I can wondering around this city and intentionally getting lost – yet realizing that this city is smaller than you think! I have found my favorite café’s, bookstores, shopping boutiques and pubs this way… all by getting lost and running into familiar corners and piecing together the puzzle.

I just was able to unpack- finally!! I have a new family to live with and I could not have imagined a more perfect home here. We live in gorgeously, simple house in Paris and I will probably have to be rolled off the airplane when I get back to the States because of their amazing cooking and our regular four-course meal. Everything they get is from the fresh markets- vegetables, fish, meats, cheeses, breads, fruits… it makes eating so much more enjoyable!!

My time here continually gets sweeter as the days go by and I love the city that so many others do too- however, I’m realizing just how fast my time will fly by!

Our weekends of traveling are not being wasted!! Munich was unforgettable as you can imagine- I have never seen so many people in lederhosen or so much food and beer!  And in the weeks to come we are visiting the South of France, hopefully Spain, Budapest and Prague for fall break and on to London for Thanksgiving. I am so richly blessed in the opportunities that are before me!!